Consommé
Consommé is a stock that has been clarified until it is completely clear and also intensified in flavour. It is made by simmering cold stock with a "raft" of egg whites, ground meat, aromatic vegetables, and an acid such as tomato, which together act as both a filter and a flavour booster.
How the raft works
Ordinary stock looks hazy because it carries suspended specks of protein and tiny droplets of fat, too small to strain out with a sieve.
Egg white proteins and the proteins in ground meat start out dissolved or loose in the cold stock. As the pot heats slowly, those proteins denature and coagulate, forming a tangled web. As the web forms, it catches the cloudy particles. Because the coagulated mass is lighter than the liquid, it floats up and knits into a solid cap: the raft.
Gentle simmering keeps the liquid circulating up through a vent in the raft and back down, so it passes through the filter again and again. Meanwhile, the meat and vegetables add flavour, making up for anything the clarification removes. Acid from tomato helps proteins coagulate firmly.
Typical ratio
| Ingredient | Per 4 L cold stock |
|---|---|
| Lean ground beef or chicken | 450 g / 1 lb |
| Egg whites | 4 (about 120 g), lightly beaten |
| Finely chopped mirepoix | 450 g / 1 lb |
| Chopped tomato | 200 g |
| Herbs, peppercorns | As for stock |
Method in brief
- Mix the raft ingredients well, then stir into cold, completely degreased stock.
- Heat slowly over medium-low, stirring gently, until the mixture reaches about 50 °C / 120 °F and starts to cloud.
- Stop stirring. As it nears a simmer, the raft rises and sets.
- Poke a small hole in the raft and keep the liquid at a lazy simmer, about 85–90 °C / 185–195 °F, for 45–90 minutes.
- Ladle the liquid through the hole and strain through a coffee filter or damp cloth.
- Blot off any fat with paper towels and season carefully.
Gelatin clarification
A modern alternative needs no eggs. Add about 7 g gelatin per litre to the stock if it does not already gel firmly, then freeze it solid. Let it thaw in the fridge over a cloth-lined sieve for 24–48 hours. The gelatin network holds back fats and particles while clear liquid drips through. The result is lighter-bodied, since most gelatin stays behind, but it is very clear.
Chef Fizz says: The raft is a protein trampoline. Don't poke it, don't stir it, just let it bounce the cloudiness out.
Serving
Consommé is served hot as a first course, often with a fine garnish of vegetables cut into brunoise, or cold, when its gelatin sets it into a delicate jelly. A double consommé uses the same process twice, or uses extra meat, for an even more concentrated flavour.
Questions
What is the difference between consommé and broth?
Consommé is broth or stock that has been clarified until it is perfectly clear and then fortified so it tastes stronger. Ordinary broth is slightly cloudy and lighter in flavour.
What is a raft in consommé?
The raft is a mix of egg whites, lean ground meat, mirepoix, and often tomato that rises and sets on top of the stock. As the proteins coagulate, they trap fat and tiny particles, filtering the liquid as it circulates.
Can you make consommé without egg whites?
Yes. Gel the stock with gelatin, freeze it solid, and let it thaw slowly in the fridge over a cloth-lined sieve. The gelatin network holds back particles while clear liquid drips through.
Why is my consommé cloudy?
Usually because it boiled, the raft broke, or the liquid was stirred after the raft formed. Keep it at a very gentle simmer and ladle it out through a hole in the raft without disturbing it.