Dried chiles: toast, soak, blend
A dried chile has tough skin and muted aroma. A few seconds on a hot dry pan frees its oils and fruity notes. Leave it longer and it scorches, and burnt chile makes a bitter sauce that sugar can't fix. Stay at the stove.
Soak, then blend
Hot water softens the flesh so the chile blends smooth. Remove the stems and, for less heat, the pale inner ribs. Blend with a splash of the soaking water, but taste it first. If it's harsh, use fresh water.
Test yourself
Questions from the interactive lesson, with the answer and the why.
How long should a dried guajillo sit on a hot dry pan?
A few seconds per side, until fragrant. That releases the oils before they can scorch.
True or false: A chile blackened in the pan just makes a smokier sauce.
False. Burnt chile skin makes bitter compounds that take over the sauce.
What went wrong? You toast guajillos until they smoke and turn black, then blend the sauce. It tastes bitter and harsh.
The chiles were scorched, which makes bitterness. Over-toasting makes bitter compounds that sugar can't hide.
Fill the blank: Stop toasting as soon as the chiles smell ___ and turn flexible.
Stop toasting as soon as the chiles smell fragrant and turn flexible. A fruity, warm aroma is the cue to pull them off.
The water your chiles soaked in tastes harsh and bitter. What do you do?
Blend with fresh water instead. Fresh water thins the paste without adding the harsh taste.
True or false: Much of a dried chile's heat sits in the pale inner ribs, so removing them tames the heat.
True. Capsaicin is concentrated in the inner ribs, so removing them lowers the heat.